Tandem Boy and Girl: Costa Brava, Spain 2023

This trip would take us from Barcelona to Girona, and north, up the Costa Brava to Cadaquès. We'd then turn west and ride along the distant base of the Pyrenees to Figueres, Olot, then head south to Vic, Monbui, and ultimately Barcelona. Click on the link below to view the map:

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1azx6d3wrEfFtKur4GlAOXb_dqkXjZFM&usp=sharing

9/17- Flight to Barcelona

It was exciting to fly to Barcelona on our 16^th cycling trip to Europe. We enjoyed our Spanish Camino trip so much, we decided to venture to eastern coast of Spain, and test our legs in the Costa Brava. Lovely flight over, and no snags. The welcome in Miami on our way to Barcelona was great. We finally got some benefits of my 2 million miles on American and enjoyed the Flagship club there.

A great welcome to AA Flagship lounge in Miami

Very nice buffet in the lounge

Off we go to Barcelona!

9/18- Barcelona transfer to Girona

Once in Barcelona, our driver finally located us and we shuttled about an hour and a half to Girona’s historic district, the official start of our trip. We always try to get in a few days early to build the bike and acclimate. The bike assembly went smoothly and then it was time to eat lunch and check out Girona.

They let us build the bike inside the hotel on beautiful marble floors

Steps to our hotel

Our first lunch was in Plaza Major

We found the food to be an incredible value

Maria's fig salad

My appetizer of smoked salmon, egg, avocado, and tomato

Maria's main course of chicken

My main course, steak sliced very thin "Argentina" style

Pineapple ice cream

Coffee flan

9/19- Girona ramble

Girona is a cycling mecca. Many of the top professional cyclists live there. It seemed like there was a bike shop on every corner, and boy were there tons of cyclists riding high end bikes. Today was an easy, “let’s wander about and have a great lunch and ” kind of day. Girona became one of the food capitals of Spain with the number one restaurant in the world in 2015 and 2017, El Celler Can Roca. Maria was on the hunt for some cool Girona cycling jerseys, which we found!

The Onyar river that separates the historic part of town and the main city

Typical street and always cyclists

Our Gaudi jerseys

Before lunch gin. Cool bar.

Local gin from a nearby town.
It has over 40 dormant volcanoes

Our restaurant right next door to the bar

The restaurant, Mon Mignon.
Only open about 7 weeks but really good.

Tuna tartare. Lots of seafood in this area

Another raw fish appetizer

Very creative and delicious steak tartare

Caesar salad

9/20- Girona group meeting

Today was the official first day of the trip where we met the guides and other participants. There were 12 of us in total, plus two guides. It had rained a little the night before and given the cobblestone streets we didn’t do the 3 mile “warm up ride” along the river. Girona has a very famous gastronomic heritage as being one of the top cities in Spain for food outside of San Sebastian on the northwest coast. Our first night’s first night group dinner at Nexe did not let us down.

The "descent " from our hotel to the restaurant

Nexe. Modern and very cool.

Traditional ham, cheese and brad appetizer

9/21- Girona to San Feliu

Day one of riding took us southeast to San Feliu. It was a fantastic day of riding with a 7-mile climb and incredibly spectacular descent to the beachfront hotel in San Feliu. Great start.

Some super cool gravel sections

Always "hamming it up"

Sandwiches made by us from "super mercado" fixings

Nice graded climb on our way to views of the Med

Quick peak of the Med

Our road descending in the far distance

The summit and the view. Sporting our Gaudi jerseys.

9/22- San Feliu to Peratallada

A real picturesque ride north along the coast from San Feliu. We headed inland to Parafrugel to visit the cork museum. Very interesting history of cork in this area. Pushing a bit east to the medieval town of Pals. A quaint but touristy spot. Our hotel for two nights was in Peratallada. We experienced an incredible Catalan meal at a olive oil and winery that night. Memorable.

Palamos harbor overlook just north of San Feliu

Pano shot of the harbor

Coffee stop at the beach in Palamos

Market day in Parafrugel

Cool statue in front of the cork museum

Fantastic display of the history of cork in the area

Cork tree cutting tools

Where cork trees are in this region

Lunch stop in the medieval town of Pals.
BBQ ribs, go figure!

Views of the valley outside of Pals

Views walking around Pals

Medieval street in Pals

Group dinner at a winery and olive oil maker

The olive oil made here. Darn good.

Love this wine wall with classic wines

Duck cured meat

One of eight different appetizers.
This was anchovy and pepper on toast.

Main course, a very common in this area;
sausage and beans. Really good.

Catalan creme brulee.
Sorry Catalonia, the French version is better.

9/23- Climb to Sant Marti Veil

A big climb today and real test for the legs. Before the climb we visited a local pottery designer in La Bisbal D’Emporda, famous for ceramics.. He gave a great presentation on the creation of his wares. Maria even got to make a bowl! We had incredible weather and a beautiful climb. Tons of cyclists riding this route. From the top you could see 16km to Girona!

Pottery works master. They provide
product primarily to restaurants

Master in training. Her pot was skillfully crafted

The road to Sant Marti Veil

The view at the top

Our stalwart group of climbers

The angel cross at the top

9/24- Peratallada to Cadaqués

This was a big day heading back to the coast over the mountains to Cadaqués, home of Salvador Dali’s summer home. It was hot and there was lots of traffic on the narrow two-lane road, but the views at the top looking down to Cadaqués were spectacular. Our hotel was right on the beach past the main tourist area, perfect!

Our trusty steed taking a rest

Lunch stop at a small bar in Castell d'Epuries

Fantastic Spanish taco filled with chicken curry

Start of the climb to Cadaqués

Happy riders in Cadaqués

One of our favorite Spanish gins. The name was appropriate for the setting.

View from our hotel beach

Looking out the window at the end of our hall

Maybe the best restaurant of the entire trip.. Compartir means to share.

Veal carpaccio

Sardines

Tuna

Carrot, melon and egg

9/25- Rest day Cadaqués

We took the day off today and wandered the city. We walked to the Dali house but unfortunately it was sold out for a visit. Nothing like a nice lunch next to the Med!

The water in the Med was crystal clear

Looking down on the Dali's summer house

Dali's summer house. Not much from the outside.
Unfortunately it was fully booked so we couldn't visit

The walk back from Dali's house. Every turn was a beautiful picture.

Statue in honor of Dali

We were so excited about the lunch at this wood fired pizza place. What a bust.
Salad was overdressed and super sweet with balsamic vinegar

Worst gazpacho of the trip, like water. But, the wine was great...

Our tour guide's favorite "gelat" store.

Couldn't resist. Cafe and Cassis.

9/26- Cadaqués to Figueres

We started the day with a chartered boat ride from Cadaqués to Roses. It was a nice break being on the ocean for an hour and a half. Once in Roses we had a short ride to Figueres. Figueres was Dali’s birthplace and home to the Dali museum where the company reserved us tickets with a guide. We got great insight on Dali. He was much more than the crazy paintings he is most famous for.

Couldn't resist one more photo of this lovely village

Looking back at Cadaqués from our boat

Super cool sailing ship took via the coastline to Roses where we
would begin our relatively short ride to Figueres

Cool castle

A welcome beer in Figueres

My lovely salad at Cafe Paris

We gave our company hats to this couple on a
motorcycle tour from the north coast

Dali himself

Dali's creativity. One view...

Buy looking at this picture another way
produced a portrait of Abraham Lincoln

The mind of Dali

Some of his famous jewelry designs

Great calamari

Fun little appetizer

Traditional potato soup

9/27- Figueres to Olot

This was a big day that provided us with lots of rolling hills that were very taxing, but the countryside was beautiful. No big monuments today. Just great riding.

9/28- Olot to Vic

Once in Olot we headed due south to Vic on our way to Barcelona. Vic is famous for pork and sausage making. We visited a small, 6^th generation, family-owned maker the next morning. Lots of fun and great stuff!!

Beautiful riding through hills and valleys

Our lunch stop

More pastorale views

Thank you Vic. We waited over a week for a laundromat

All worth the effort!

9/29- Vic to Montbui

We started the day at the sausage maker in Vic. Lots of fun! We made great time today and arrived at our hotel an hour before the rest of the group. Perfect timing for lunch and a G&T! Our hotel and the town is famous for natural hot baths.

Suiting up for sausage making in the morning before riding

The queen of sausages in Vic

The retail store

Rare ballon sighting in Vic

Gorgeous road with a ancient castle in the distance

Monbui arrival G&T

"Hamburgesa completa"

Our hotel

Appropriate name for the bar

9/30- Monbui to Barcelona

We were on the final stretch today. It was a lovely ride via a beautiful greenway into a very busy Barcelona. We rode along the beach then up the famous street La Rambla to our hotel. Quite a day!

The outskirts of Barcelona

Modern buildings lined the oceanfront

Famous statue??

Intense experience riding up La Rambla to our hotel

Now the fun begins....

2 hours later, bike in case, BRAVO!!

Really fun cooking competition making tapas. They split us into two teams, spouses had to be separated. Each team had to name a captain. You guessed it, Maria's team named her, and my team named me. We went head to head in a taste off for special privileges. Maria won two out of three!

Great group shot.
Of course Maria's team won the big honors!

Barcelona- Post trip

We spent 4 more days in Barcelona to see the sights and enjoy the food and beverages.

THE RESTAURANT SCENE

Barcelona is famous throughout Spain for its top level cuisine. We used the Michelin Guide as a resource for recommendations. They did not let us down.

A tiny market selling roasted chickens

Majide. The casual and less expensive option to the 1-star Koy Shunka.
Fantastic experience. We had the 8 course tasting menu. Owner was hands on including holding a customer's baby!

Gyoza

Beautiful oyster

Cuttle fish

Clams

Sashimi platter

Nigri platter

Toro tataki

L'Olive. We walked by this place on our way to the Gaudi house, La Pedrera. Fancy place with underwhelming food for the price.

Cool display of wines. This particular wine we purchased years ago in Bordeaux.
It's still waiting in our cellar to be enjoyed.

Veal carpaccio. Actually very good but a HUGE portion.

Enough Spanish wines on this trip. It was time to
enjoy one of our favorite Chablis areas.

Fresh turbot. Very good but a massive portion, even for two people.

Beautiful display of spirits

Estimar. One of our favorite meals of the trip. This small cozy place put out incredible fresh seafood.

Michelin liked this place and we agree!

Great view of 70% of the restaurant.
Note the fresh fish on ice by the kitchen.

Incredible white, Spanish Rioja. 100% Viura. These are hard to find outside
of the Rioja region on the other side of Spain.
Perfect pairing with our fish courses. Worth every penny.

Hands down best sardines of the trip. Melt in your mouth.

Tiny skewers of pickled goodies and the famous Catalan tomato garlic bread.

Lovely fish carpaccio

Whole seabass. Wow

Fresh tomato salad

Incredible chocolate flan

Our dessert spirit options.
We chose the Hennessy XO and Laubade 2003 Armagnac

Clemens Boquiera- Inside of the "boquiera" the indoor market

Counter seating only at Clemens

Fresh oysters from France

Padron peppers

Whole dorada

La Boquiera- Fabulous indoor market

All kinds of "carne"

Salamis that were everywhere

Jamon. This is the Bellota, fed with acorns. The most expensive.
That's 225 euros for 2.2 lbs.

Paella

Lots of oysters

Fresh eggs

Potato chips on a skewer

Loved these hamburger tacos

THE BAR SCENE

Barcelona is famous for its bars. On the top 50 bars of the world list, Barcelona has three in the top ten.

Bobby Gin- I researched gin bars and this one was consistently on the top of the list. What a place. Small, great bartender, and over 70 gins. We thought we had died and gone to gin heaven.

Small street, almost an alley entrance

"The perfect gin and tonic does not exist"

Incredible selection of spirits. The second level is all gin

Cooling our "coupes" for the upcoming Vesper

The perfect Vesper

Our esteemed bartender, Roberto. What a pro.

Tandem Bar- This was a recommendation from Roberto at Bobby Gin. We loved the name and the logo. Absolutely gorgeous bar, but a bit stuffy and a more limited gin selection.

Name says it all

Gorgeous wood shelves and bar. A bit more
of a whiskey bar than gin

Love the logo on the glasses. We tried to buy some, but no go

I had never seen this Beefeater before.
It's their high end. Quite good, but pricey

Ideal Bar- another bar recommended by Roberto at Bobby Gin. Classy place. A bit of a man's club feel. The bartender was one of the best we have ever seen, dressed in his white coat. He used a technique called "throwing" the cocktail; basically raising the glass overhead, then pouring it into the other vessel. It aerates the cocktail in a way that can't be done by shaking or stirring.

Nice selection of spirits

All gins were kept in the freezer

Nice touch with the caviar toasts

Sips- This was the last recommendation by Roberto. Sips is the #3 bar in the world. Really fun and engaging Italian owner. Great drinks. They made the best martini we have ever had.

You'd walk right by it if you didn't know
what you were looking for

House freebie with bubbles

"Freda Caldo"

The ultimate martini, called a Two Stage. They bring half out ice cold,
then when you have finished, they bring the second half

Incredible Venezuelan gin used in the martini.
No vermouth (which they call an "in and out")

One of their other crazy drinks; the
glass object and the "hands" as a drinking vessel

Two Schmucks- This was #7 on the top 50 bars of the world. It was in a former gritty area and they designed the bar to reflect that vibe. Graffiti on the walls and more of a dark feel. They were not too engaging and the cocktails were average at best.